A Pack for Your Troubles…

Article by Chris Butterfield

“You live in alien surroundings, love. Don’t let your roots grow too deep. There are better places than Brighouse.”

Margaret Ainley had become accustomed to Alfred Wainwright’s blunt and dryly humorous replies. Over nearly two decades, from 1971 to 1990, she maintained a correspondence with Wainwright, yet they never met face-to-face. Despite his prompt and reliable responses to every letter, Wainwright’s nature as a private individual was apparent; he was not inclined towards personal meetings, preferring to maintain their relationship solely through correspondence.

I first read about Margaret in Hunter Davies’ Wainwright: The Biography, published by Michael Joseph in 1995. Several of her early letters appeared in the book. Still, I never knew of her whereabouts until Maggie Allan, a good friend and member of the Alfred Wainwright Books & Memorabilia Facebook Group, mentioned that two friends, Roger and Ann Hiley, from Loweswater, knew Margaret well.

Shortly after making arrangements, I found myself in Brighouse, West Yorkshire, to meet Margaret Ainley. She had spent most of her life there with her husband Richard, who had passed away, and their daughter Catherine.

Margaret and Richard were avid walkers, and Margaret’s initial contact with Wainwright was in early 1971. She wrote to inform him that the ascent to Graystones in The North Western Fells was now accessible without needing a machete to navigate Spout Force. Wainwright quickly replied, appreciative of the updated route information. This exchange marked the beginning of their long-standing correspondence.

At that time, Margaret and Richard were expecting Catherine, their first child. Wainwright, enthusiastic about introducing the new baby to hill walking, suggested that Catherine visit Smearsett Scar, a location from his recent book Walks in Limestone Country. Catherine was born in the spring of 1972, and following Wainwright’s suggestion, she reached the summit of Smearsett Scar on 10 October 1972, marking her first hill climb. Margaret treasures the First Edition of Wainwright’s book, which they used for this memorable walk.

Wainwright was adamant about purchasing Catherine’s first rucksack. In response, Margaret proposed that Catherine could collect it from him when she was old enough. However, true to his nature, Wainwright sent the rucksack directly to their home in Brighouse, arriving in the next post. Margaret couldn’t help but smile at this gesture. As Catherine grew older, she frequently used the rucksack Wainwright had sent for her outdoor adventures. Even decades later, Catherine kept the rucksack, a testament to Wainwright’s generous spirit.

Over the years, Wainwright shared his enthusiasm for Scotland’s mountains and his work in their correspondence, discussing projects like his renowned A Coast to Coast Walk book and Westmorland Heritage.

An exciting turn occurred when Margaret, accompanying Richard to a cricket game in Kendal, located Wainwright’s home address in the local phone directory. Wainwright, usually private, took Margaret’s direct approach in stride, responding with a mix of humour and mild reprimand: “Since you have discovered that I live in a house and not a room at the Westmorland Gazette office, there seems to be little point in further pretence. Yes, write to me here if you prefer, but don’t get too affectionate; my wife grabs the post first.”

Margaret often regaled Wainwright with tales from her Scottish holidays, like her visit to Cladich on Loch Awe in Argyll, where she encountered numerous caterpillars hanging from trees, much to her disgust. Wainwright’s response was playfully teasing: “Thank you for the eight-page account of your second Lock Awe holiday, all of which made good reading apart from your vindictive attack on innocent caterpillars – sweet little things, I always considered them. You must really learn to love your fellow creatures.” He then humorously filled his letters with caterpillar drawings, teasing Margaret further.

It wasn’t long before Margaret revealed her love for steam trains to Wainwright, but he was horrified by the smokey trains tearing around the countryside: “Trains are a pre-occupation of advancing years. The fells are for the active and young in heart. You have suddenly become middle-aged. A happy Christmas. Sorry I haven’t a card with a train on it. Mine are all of mountains.”

In 1983, Catherine, then aged eleven, wrote the first of many letters to Wainwright. In return, she received a lovely letter, “Do you remember the first hill you climbed? I do. It was Smearsett Scar in Ribblesdale. In those days, your mum used to like me.”

In 1984, Richard was offered a new job in Norfolk, and the family uprooted from Brighouse and moved south. Wainwright was not best pleased: “Norfolk is not the place to fritter away your life,” he wrote. “You are a creature of the hills and should be amongst them. Norfolk is a foreign country, and you are an exile.” Things did not work out in Norfolk, and they returned, to Wainwright’s delight, sixteen months later. “Dear Margaret, Great news!! Back to the hills and moors and steam engines. Now you can start living again.” Wainwright suddenly started to like Brighouse.

The exchange of letters between Margaret and Wainwright lasted until 20 February 1990. Wainwright was pleased that Margaret enjoyed his new Coast to Coast Walk TV series. Although he found the experience enjoyable, he regretted not being able to respond to all the letters he received following the series. He admitted that his days of walking were behind him and now relied solely on his memories. His parting advice to Margaret was characteristic of his humour: “Enjoy this wonderful life we have. But take my advice – keep away from Norfolk.”

After Wainwright passed away, Margaret had the opportunity to meet his wife, Betty, at Kapellan, the animal rescue centre in Grayrigg near Kendal, a cause close to Wainwright’s heart. During this visit, Margaret presented Betty with King Alfred daffodil bulbs to plant at the centre. Betty reciprocated by giving Margaret a tour and introducing her to the animals. When Margaret wondered if Wainwright might have agreed to meet her, Betty thoughtfully responded, “Perhaps he would have.”

Observing Margaret’s collection of Wainwright’s letters, meticulously filed in chronological order, was a profoundly touching experience. During my brief time with her, it was evident how much she valued her friendship with Wainwright. The fact that she named her cat after him further reflected this bond. Also, seeing the rucksack Wainwright had bought for Catherine as a baby added a personal dimension to their story. It countered the perceptions of Wainwright as a misogynist and a recluse, revealing instead his capacity for kindness, generosity, and gentleness.